Saturday, July 12, 2014

Ha Long Bay, VN

"Loving Chickens" islands in Ha Long Bay.  Ha Long Bay has thousands of islands, each taking on a different shape.  Overtime, people have named them for what they look like.

From Hanoi we caught a bus at 8am from our hotel to Ha Long Bay.  We signed up for a tour with ODC travels but ended up with Vega Tours somehow.  In the end we had a great time so we didn't really care which boat we were on, haha.  During our bus ride I finally saw my first torrential downpour (excepting the one I was caught in for 5 minutes).  It rained and it rained.  For the most part our entire Ha Long Trip was cloudy if not raining but we have missed the rain so much we really didn't mind.

Our bus arrived to the harbor and we got on a smaller boat which took us to our bigger boat.  The boat was so much more than we had expected it to be.  The dining room was nicely set and had furniture that wasn't plastic.  The bedroom was air conditioned and had a nice bathroom as well as a beautiful view.  The upper deck had a dozen wooden pool-deck-like chairs (not sure what those are called) for lounging.  And to top it off, we were sharing the boat with 9 people who were all really cool.

There was a Australian/French couple that was living in Tokyo, a couple from the Netherlands, a couple from France, a couple from a Spanish speaking place that we didn't really talk to because they didn't really speak English, and a girl named Deborah from Brazil who was traveling through southeast Asia by herself for one year.  This was month nine for her.  We learned a lot about the couples from Japan and the Netherlands as well as Deborah over the 48 hours we spent together.  We were so happy to find that it wasn't a couples cruise because that was somewhat of a concern for us haha.

There was also a packed itinerary of fun activities for the tour including exploring a cave, kayaking, swimming, hiking a limestone island in the bay, and eating some really fantastic cooking.  We ended the trip with a stop off at a fishing village where they farm pearls before heading back to the harbor.  It was nice to enjoy a trip where we didn't have to make any decisions or do any planning.  The trip was about $130 which covered our hotel in Hanoi, a night's stay on the boat, all of the aforementioned activities, and our meals.  We felt like it was a good enough deal and certainly enjoyed our time.  That's all for now, thanks for reading!

Walked around this cave.  Vietnam has some of the largest caves in the world (not that this is one of them).  This cave was called Hang Sung Sot or Cave of Awe.

View from the entrance to the cave.

Dusk

View from the top of the island we hiked up.

Greg talking to Deborah on the smaller boat attached to our ship.

View from the bow of the smaller boat.

Kayaking

Bedroom and Bathroom

Dragons on the bow of the ships are supposed to remind people of the legend that suggests the lime stone rocks were formed by a dragon swooping down and carving its way through the rock.  They're also symbols of royalty.

Bow of the ship

Dining room

Cooking class with our tour guide, Tiger, an Australian/French couple that lives in Japan, and a couple I never really spoke to because they mostly only spoke Spanish.

 
Delicious food and the hike back down from the top of that mountain we climbed in the morning.  I believe it was called Dao Tuan Chau.

Just another photo of the island.

Tiger showing us the oysters at the pearl farm.

Pearl farm.  There are a lot of floating villages around where fishermen live.

Hanoise

This intersection was the most ridiculous one we'd found in Vietnam yet.  In this photo in particular you can see three people casually walking across a landscape of motorbikes and cars traveling in every direction.

Friday / Day 1

I've spent the last week since returning from Vietnam getting over jet lag and in the mix haven't found the time to blog but now I'm going to finally catch up on the last few days of our trip.  Greg and I arrived in Hanoi after a flight from Da Nang and immediately took a cab to our hotel.  Fortunately we ran into a danish couple in Hoi An that was living in Hanoi and told us exactly how much to haggle for (350.000 VND or about $8.50 per person).

We arrived at Tu Linh Palace Hotel (2) and were greeted by River.  He was probably the friendliest person we met in Vietnam.  Perhaps I liked him the most because he didn't try to sell us anything like all of the past hotels (tours, tailors, etc.).  He handed us a map and showed us a good route to take in order to see the old town and marked down all of the popular tourist spots like Ho Chi Minh's resting place and a few famous pagodas.  We had made plans for the following day to take a tour to Ha Long Bay so we decided to just walk around the old town.

First we hit the lake with the red bridge.  The story behind the lake has something to do with a turtle and a sword and a king who got the sword from the turtle and then returned it?  I can't remember... haha.  We continued walking around and stopped at the restaurant in the first picture below for lunch.  Once again Greg had Pho but I asked for them to leave out the hot water since all week the temperatures were around 95 with 80% humidity so I enjoyed some chicken and noodles.

Walking around old town we began to notice that every street had a theme.  There was the metal working street, the gold street, the linen street, the spray paint street, the touristy souvenir street, the art street, the list goes on.  Turns out that is actually how the city used to be laid out and has since kind of kept that form.  Every street was pretty narrow with just as many motorbikes and cars as could fit on them.  Some were not so busy, others were so busy Greg and I couldn't even walk down them for lack of space.  There are ten times as many power lines as are necessary running overhead and trash is collected in piles along the side of the road to be burned in the evening.

We stopped for another meal at a crepe place that was absolutely delicious.  Greg caved and had something other than noodles.  He doesn't care for sweets but even he was craving some sugar.  After leaving there we eventually ended up at the market place which, like other market places had the stench of rotting foods and vendors operating out of small tent-like structures but, unlike the other markets we had seen, also had a massive mall structure.  Inside the mall was more crap than I could bear to see.  Honestly I was so repulsed by the smell of the former market place yet somehow the amount of plastic and useless items crammed into one place in the latter market was cause for even more disgust.  I just couldn't help but think of all the Earth's resources that were being wasted.  Of course we all waste things one way or another but this was excessive.

After so much walking we were both exhausted and famished.  There was a nice restaurant by our hotel so we ate there and befriended a nice couple who sat next to us.  We went back to the hotel to regain just enough strength to head out to see the night market.  It was certainly bustling but didn't offer anything that Greg or I would want so we walked the length of it and returned to our hotel again to get some rest before our tour in the morning (and soak up all the AC).  Despite my best efforts to stay awake for the FIFA match, I was out by 10pm.

Monday / Day 2

Perhaps I should have made this two posts... oh well!

We returned from Ha Long Bay on Sunday around 4pm and enjoyed a relaxing evening.  We wanted to check out that crazy bar scene we had seen on our first night so we sat and began people watching.  We saw a girl petting what appeared to be a pet chipmunk but then the chipmunk disappeared causing us to wonder if it was a pet at all.  People whizzed by on mopeds with their dogs resting at their feet.  An old man sat by us and purchased every single item that was offered to him.  We meandered from bar to bar but ended up back at the first bar again at which point we met a group of french students.  They were so fun to talk to that we sat with them for several hours until the bars closed at which point I had consumed 2 beers and Greg, perhaps, 10?  15?  Our french friends finished the night off with a shot and convinced Greg to do one too so, needless to say, he was a little dehydrated the next morning haha.

In the morning we did all of the touristy spots in a matter of a few hours.  We walked along the lake by old town to the Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton).  The exhibits went on to showcase how the Vietnamese were tortured mercilessly there by the French and then at the end had two rooms dedicated to how "well" the Americans were treated there.  I honestly felt silly reading some of the descriptions.  It all seemed to be a bunch of propaganda.  We continued on to the Temple of Literature which was quite fantastic and then to Ho Chi Minh's resting place passing loads of embassies along the way.  We carried on for a little longer towards the bigger lakes outside the city but Greg was quickly fading due to the hot weather and a bit of a hang over so we caught a cab ride back to the hotel for about $2 total and found a place to have some lunch.  The lunch we had was perhaps the most delicious meal we'd had in Vietnam.  It was pricey but we had dong (VND) to spend before leaving anyhow so we went all out.  I had two banana lassi's and the Bun Cha, a meal that Hanoi is well known for.

The meal was our last stop before catching a taxi to the airport.  We arrived at the airport with what we thought would be a fair amount of time to spare.  Well we spared all of that time in the line to get our boarding passes.  We luckily weren't forced to check any bags and got our tickets after... I don't know... an hour?  While waiting in line we met this girl named Sam from San Francisco.  She studied at MIT and has traveled all over the world and now works for a company in SF so we had a lot of things in common to talk about.  She got her ticket before us but we found her again in line to get on the plane (we arrived at our gate as the plane was beginning to board).  It turned out she was in the row ahead of us and when no one filled the third seat in our row we invited her to sit with us.  Three hours later we were in Taipei and realized our flights to California were at the same time.  So we hung out for two more hours during our layover before waving good bye at our gates (which were next to each other).

The flight across the Pacific was mostly spent sleeping and flew by quite quickly.  I believe it was 13 hours but we must have slept for close to 8 or 9 of those hours.  Al picked us up at LAX around 10:30pm.  All in all it was a successful trip I'd say.  Vietnam was certainly an experience!  Thanks for reading.

Lunch

The red bridge to a pagoda on the lake.  Can't remember the names of the lake or pagoda...

Greg eating a crepe and getting his dad some propaganda art.  His dad fought in the Vietnam War.

You want sandals?  They've got sandals.  You want mannequin feet?  They've got mannequin feet.

THREE FLOORS OF THIS

Just some cool architecture

For the first time on this trip, we shared a room.

Breakfast buffet

The bar scene in Hanoi is nuts.  This is the main intersection where all the bars are.  People flood into the streets.  As the night goes on bars expand one plastic set of chairs at a time eventually taking over.  At midnight the police go around the city shutting the bars down.  My favorite part of this photo is the small child in the right bottom corner.

Night Market

This is that same intersection slightly earlier in the evening.  Bia Hoi translates from Vietnamese as "Gas Beer" but more commonly "Fresh Beer".  The beer is brewed in the morning and is often sold in the next few days if not that afternoon.  It's only ~3% alcohol and, more importantly, only 5,000 VND or 25 cents per glass.  Also, to the left of the "Local" store was a skate shop!

This old man kept buying alllllll the things.  Every person that came by trying to sell him something would buy it.  I decided it'd be fun to have my shoes cleaned for a dollar.  They were still dirty.  Oh well.

Our french friends, a bartender laying down, and the Scottish bar owner being weird.  We spent most of the night with our new friends talking about politics, music, and traveling (mostly politics) in a combination of French and English.  Greg and I got to practice our French and they got to practice their English.

Temple of literature.  These turtles are called stelae and have a list of all the names of people (along with a few personal details) who passed certain grueling exams.

They were out of single rooms so River hooked me up with a triple for my last night haha.

Hoa Lo Prison

The display and descriptions of the Americans' lives were laughable.  If you've never seen propaganda... now you have!

John McCain's flight suit that he was shot down and captured in.

Entrance to the temple of literature.  Beautiful gardens.

More temple of literature.

Ho Chi Minh's resting place.  It was closed so we didn't go in.

All the power cables!  This was the view from our dining table.

I finally got to try the Bun Cha which Hanoi is known for and it was amazing!

Making a new friend on the airplane, Sam!

Casually taking some photos during our layover in Taipei.

Got some sarsaparilla soda.


Friday, July 4, 2014

Hoi An

Watching USA play Belgium at 3am in a cafe.

As we left the tailor in Hoi An, we headed for our hotel, Tue Tam Homestay.  Li was having trouble finding it.  He pulled up to a building and was quite confused to see that it was not a hotel.  We were clearly on the wrong street.  After driving in a few circles he finally pulls into a small neighborhood that looked like it may have seen better days.  Greg and I were skeptical at first but then we rounded the corner and found a beautiful home awaiting us.

I’m now sitting in the Da Nang airport having just left the homestay and despite having spent three nights there Greg and I are still unsure what the hosts names were so we just refer to them as Mom and Dad.  We were greeted by Mom and Dad and Uncle (Mom’s Brother) grabbed our bags.  They were immediately puzzled as to why there were only two of us when we got two rooms—they were expecting four people.  No one understands why we want our own rooms.  At only $22/night, we feel it is worth it.  They were also very disappointed to hear that we had already been to a tailor.  They were going to give us great prices at Aunt’s tailor shop.

We discovered that Uncle has a café in the back and plans to play the FIFA matches on TV there.  We had been planning on waking up for the 3am match but were never sure where we were going to watch it.  My (real) Dad told me to just go to a sports bar.  “Dad, you don’t understand… they don’t have sports bars with TVs here…”  Naturally, we were grateful to have such a convenient place to watch it.

We sat in their living room and were briefed on Hoi An and our options for the next few days before heading up to our rooms to cool off.  The house is basically open air but our rooms had a fan and AC.  We soon set off again for some dinner and a walk along the river.  It was nice to finally eat something that wasn't noodles.  Hoi An is well known for its cuisine.

We got back to the hotel and went to bed pretty early—perhaps around 8pm—so that we could wake up early for the USA World Cup match.  I was in the hall knocking on Greg’s door at 2:55am to make sure he was awake when Uncle ran upstairs and pointed excitedly downstairs letting us know that the match was about to begin.  We made our way down to the café where there was a plastic table of shirtless Vietnamese men gambling, a few other plastic tables of other people, a few lizards on the wall, and a rat eating out of a pan off to the side all present to watch the match.  It seemed as though everyone was cheering for the US too.

We ended up staying awake and having some street food for breakfast down the street around 5:30am.  At 7am we had second breakfast with the homestay and Mom asked us how the game went.  “You didn’t get any sleep and your team lost?  Haha!”  This was generally how all conversations with Mom went.  “You’re so burned, does it hurt?”  “Yes, it hurts a lot.”  “That’s why we were clothes so we don’t get burned.  Now you’re two colors!  Haha!”

Dad arranged for us to take a tour of My Son (pronounced MEE son, means Beautiful Mountain) for $6 per person.  We also had to pay an entrance fee of 100,000 VND or $5.  The tour guide spoke perhaps the best English we had heard so far.  He told us about all the monuments, art, and history of the site.  There was a big emphasis put on the fact that the US bombed it about 50 years ago when the Viet Cong were hiding there.  Before that, in the 1800s when the French were leaving Vietnam, they took all the heads off the sculptures.  Those can now be found in the Louvre.  The French were actually the ones who rediscovered My Son after a 500-year break in its usage.

We walked around and saw our Spaniard friend touring by himself (the one we met in Hue).  At the end of the tour we took a boat ride back to Hoi An with a few stop offs at a wood working shop and a boat yard of sorts.  We then were off to the tailors to try on our clothes and then did some shopping and laundry.  Back at the homestay we cooled off a bit and planned our days in the north (hotels in Hanoi, day trips out to Ha Long Bay, etc.).  In the evening we walked around and ran into the three girls we met on the motor cycle tour.  We grabbed some drinks with them before running into these three German girls we met on the My Son tour.  It's funny how often we run into people we meet.

On Thursday we took the free bikes that the homestay offers and biked around town.  First we went to the tailors to try on our clothes and then took the bikes down to the beach.  The resorts there seem incredibly nice.  We had lunch on the beach and befriended a guy from San Diego and a girl from NY.  We haven't really enjoyed Hoi An as much as Hue because it is so touristy so we just spend a lot of our time making new friends.  We left the beach and Greg led the way weaving through a lot of side streets.  We made it back to town in time to pick up our laundry and new clothes and then headed back to the homestay to cool off again.  It has been pretty hot...

That night we ate dinner at this fantastic place called Morning Glory where we befriended two Australian girls.  They were unfortunately catching a shuttle back to their resort so Greg and I went to an ice cream/bar/photography gallery and sat next to two french girls.  We chatted with them for a while and before we knew it, it was time to head back to the homestay.

Greg and I are now in Hanoi after having caught two long taxi rides and a plane.  More to come on Hanoi later!  =)

Dinner shortly after arriving in Hoi An: something other than noodles.

Tue Tam Homestay
Momma dog and the homestay's entrance.  Momma dog's son was sick : (

Breakfast table

Breakfast.  The bread was really good actually.  Perhaps the french influence?

Left: The street our homestay was on at the end of Le Loi (a major road) kind of.
Right: A house on our street which was quite nice looking.

View from our homestay

Photos of Hoi An


Hoi An Market


My Son 
Some pretty sights on our way to My Son

Rice

My Son Temples

This is where they buried kings and notable people until the 13th century.

Americans bombed this area when the Viet Cong were hiding here destroying many of what remained of the ruins already.

Our eccentric tour guide on the bus to My Son

A little tired and hot by the end of the tour

Took a boat ride back to Hoi An

Wood workers

Boat-maker yard

At a restaurant by the river with some German girls we met on the My Son tour.

We were always sweaty by the time we made it to the tailor unfortunately.

Tailor

Lunch by the beach

Greg leading the way on a bike ride.

Our most expensive dinner bill yet was at a delicious place called Morning Glory.  The total bill equated to less than $20.  Typically we eat street food for about $2.